Mercedes of the S-class W202

1993-2000 of release

Repair and operation of the car

Leveling and lacquering works on a body of the car assume knowledge of material and its processing. Such knowledge is acquired during long-term practice. Therefore here data on elimination only of small malfunctions of a body and a varnish covering are provided.

The same lacquer paint since the slightest differences of coloring after completion of works are evident at once is necessary for repeated varnishing surely. The corresponding tone of paint is specified by the manufacturer on the company plate as number of a varnish. The company plate is in a motor compartment on a forward wall.

If nevertheless distinction between a company varnish and a repair varnish takes place, then it is explained by change of color of a varnish in use of the car as a result of aging, ultra-violet solar radiation, extreme fluctuation of temperatures, weather conditions and chemical influence, for example, of industrial emissions. Besides, damages of a surface of a varnish, change of its coloring and fading take place if care of a varnish covering and its cleaning were made by improper means.

The metallized varnish covering consists of two layers, the main varnish – a metallic and a colourless integumentary varnish. In the course of varnishing the colourless varnish is put from above a damp main varnish. Danger of difference of color at repeated drawing the metallized varnish covering is especially big since here already various viscosity of a repair varnish in comparison with a company varnish results in distinction of flowers.

Elimination of damages from blows of stones

To avoid the big repair caused by emergence of a rust it is necessary to eliminate small damages of a varnish covering regularly.

For elimination of small scratches and traces from blows of stones which break only an integumentary varnish and enough processings by a varnish pencil do not get to a tin, generally. Along with it also the varnish helps with tubes with a brush, and also on sale there is a self-adhesive varnish film in case damage is very insignificant or mentions only primer.

Deeper damages of blows of stones on which the rust is already formed it is cleared by rust eliminators, a knife or the small screw-driver, the pure tin does not appear yet. It is very important that there was no small spot of a rust left even at all. Eliminators of a rust are meant as the small plastic sleeves supplied for a rust vytsarapyvaniye with a short wire brush.

The cleared places have to be carefully dried and fat-free. For this purpose to clear the place of repair and a surrounding varnish a silicone eliminator.

To apply on the cleared metal surface with a thin brush of a little varnish primer ("Primer"). As primer usually is available on sale in aerosol package, it is necessary to apply a little primer on a cover of packing and to dip in it a brush.

After drying of primer to varnish the place of repair from banks with a varnish for plugging. In such packings the brush is built in a cover. If on hand there is only one aerosol package with the corresponding paint, then to vyprysnut a little paint on a cover, and in conclusion to put a varnish with a thin layer a brush. Always to apply only a varnish coat that it did not spread. In conclusion to give to paint it is good to dry out. To carry out process of varnishing until deepening is not filled with a varnish and will not be considerably at the level of the surrounding varnished surface.

Deformation elimination body / removal of sinks from corrosion

Small holes can be eliminated by means of the leveling hammer and a suitable manual anvil. When deepenings in a body from a rust it is recommended to replace the damaged detail in a complex, depending on damage size, or to weld sheet steel.

Elimination of deformations of a body

Periodically control the leveled surface a hand until it gets the necessary form. Later putty small surfaces.

From the place of repair after alignment carefully remove the remains of a rust and old varnish by means of the rough emery paper (120) tense on the grinding grandma or polish with a fabric circle. Paste over the decorative films or plastic details located nearby with an adhesive tape that they incidentally were not scratched when polishing.

Preparation for varnishing

Before varnishing wash up the car.

You carry out varnishing only at a temperature above +12 °C, avoiding direct solar radiation and wind.

Removal of a rust

Paste over the place of repair with an adhesive tape incidentally not to damage an adjacent varnish.

Remove with a trihedral file or the screw-driver, and also sanding paper No. 120 the visible rust and a rust hidden by bubbles.

Sanding paper No. 320 grind the place around damage on width about 1-2 cm to a healthy varnish in advance.

Grind galvanized surfaces of a body, whenever possible, only to primer, but not to a galvanized surface.

Putting primer (Primer), protective from corrosion

Wipe the place of repair with a nitrothinner and remove with a pure rag fat and dust, let's dry out.

That there were no further problems, Primer and the integumentary varnish applied on it have to be identical production. Otherwise later it can be varnished bubbles or shrink.

"Primer" is sprayed on the tin cleared of a rust from distance of 25 cm. That the smallest splashes of an aerosol did not get on adjacent details, paste over a surface around the place of repair with paper and an adhesive tape.

In 10–15 minutes it is possible to repeat spraying. If after spraying hard putty is necessary, then it is necessary to allow to Primer to dry.

Hard putty

Distinguish 2 types of hard putty: two-component hard putty and thin hard putty. Two-component hard putty mixes up before processing with a hardener shortly. It causes bystry hardening of hard putty which can soon be processed after that. Such hard putty is used for alignment of larger roughnesses of a body. Thin hard putty is decorative, smoothing small roughnesses. It can be put in several layers. Both types of hard putty are issued in tubes and banks, filling hard putties are available also on sale in aerosol package.

Though on bank it is specified that putting hard putty can be made directly on the cleared tin, just in case we recommend to process previously a tin of "Primer" (protection against corrosion).

After drying grind roughnesses manually or a superfinishing head. At the same time sanding paper No. 180 has to be used. It is possible to use paper for damp grinding. In this case moisten the place of repair with a wet sponge, and from time to time in the course of grinding pour over sanding paper enough water.

In conclusion carefully clear the place of repair and let's it dry.

Depending on layer thickness thin hard putty has to dry 2–3 hours.

Grinding

On sale there is a sanding paper of various granularity. The less its number, the grinding is more rough. For grinding of two-component hard putty granularity from No. 180 to 240 is recommended; filling hard putty and an old varnish are ground by sanding paper No. 360 with moistening. For the last damp grinding before varnishing sanding paper No. 600 is recommended.

For the subsequent damp final grinding special paper is suitable for damp grinding No. 600 best of all, it it is possible to grind also boundary varnish and splashes of a varnish. The microscopic scratches remaining after that on an integumentary varnish are hardly noticeable.

Cleaning

Before drawing a varnish covering it is necessary to clear of fat and of the silicone remains the ground surface and an adjacent varnish surface about two palms wide. Best of all for this purpose the silicone eliminator approaches.

After grinding carefully clear the place of repair and paste over all adjacent surfaces with newsprint and an adhesive tape. When varnishing wings carefully paste over tires and the shock-absorber.

For prevention of subsidence of dust sprinkle a floor water.

Varnishing process

That there were no problems in the course of varnishing, previously put Primer has to be made by the same firm, as an aerosol varnish. The varnish in this case will not form bubbles and to shrink.

We recommend to be trained previously in drawing a varnish, for example, on an old wing.

Humidify a floor with water that dust was not formed.

Wipe the place of repair and the area adjoining to it with a silicone eliminator. Even more optimum basis for an integumentary varnish will be created by wiping by the polishing paste deleting silicone.

Aerosol package before use intensively stir up a minimum within 3–5 minutes, otherwise on a surface will arise begin to flow a varnish.

At a covering "Metallic" is delicious apply a small amount of paint from aerosol package on any cardboard to eliminate the metal particles which are besieged on a lifting tube.

Small surfaces spray on a spiral outside inside to avoid too big dusting.

Messages aerosol package with a uniform speed and at identical distance (about 25 cm) from a surface.

To provide perhaps imperceptible transition to a healthy varnish, it is necessary to put with its at least four blocked spraying courses. Each separate drawing has to increase a surface of the previous put layer by 2–3 centimeters.

If spraying is made in too short distance, the movement of spraying too slow or happens to variable speed, then there are so-called flows of a varnish. It means that in some places the varnish flows down down since it vypryskivatsya on the same place too much. The same occurs if at change of the direction in the course of spraying the sprayer does not pass through the closed surface.

For a varnish "Metallic" it is very difficult to reach coincidence of color to a company varnish. Pigmentation (distribution of particles of aluminum) will be more uniform if the last process of spraying happens from distance not of 25 cm, but 30 cm. The slow movement of a sprayer gives more saturated color, and bystry spraying – lighter tone.

Empty aerosol package. For this purpose establish aerosol package on a head and a vypryskivayta paint until it is not.

After the end of lacquering works at once remove all sheetings.

Let's dry out the varnished surface. Drying can be accelerated by means of a strong photo or reflex lamp.

Not to use the fan since as a result on a fresh varnish the swirled dust particles can be besieged.